'Talofa' and 'malo e lelei'! Basking in the waters of the South Pacific, the Tongan and Samoan islands offer adventures aplenty and a chance to avoid the sun-seeking hordes. Swim with whales off Vava'u or discover the ruins of Ta'u. Luxuriate in swish resorts or kick back in beachside huts. Tap into Apia's buzzing café scene or Nuku'alofa's 'kava' ceremonies. Whatever your island scene, take this guide along!